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 I traveled again to Sudan this summer, a visit that included time in both Khartoum, the nation's newly active capital, and Darfur, where humanitarian concerns are still stark. On this visit, two things stood out in stark contrast: the fragility of peace, and the resilient optimism of those working toward it.
As brief background, Sudan, one of the largest nations in Africa, has been plagued by conflict for years. The brutal fight in Darfur started in 2003, and has received massive media attention in recent years. It followed on the heals of a two-decade civil war between North and South that ended with the Comprehensive Peace Accord (CPA) reached in 2005. Though South Sudan is often overlooked in the press now, the two conflicts are integrally linked - without peace across the country, peace anywhere in the country may be in jeopardy.
Khartoum, a sleepy town when I last visited in 2004, is a now burgeoning place marked by traffic and construction cranes. Though southerners once came to Khartoum to escape conflict in their region, many are now staying or making the journey to take advantage of growing employment opportunities. In this city, Bishop Patrick Cooney, my traveling partner, and I witnessed one of the first plenary meetings of northern and southern bishops in nearly 20 years. Long divided by war, the Sudan Catholic Bishops Conference is now coming together joyously.
On the day Bishop Cooney and I arrived in Khartoum, the bishops held an open-air Mass in St. Matthew's Cathedral. On the grounds outside, nearly 5,000 people - many who had taken time off work to be there - gathered to receive the bishops, shaking and kissing their hands and thanking them for standing firm during the long-running war. A celebration that followed, featuring young dancers and drummers from nearly every major tribe in South Sudan, inspired onlookers - including priests, nuns and a bishop - to leap up and join the dancing. The festivities felt like a real turning point, as if people were removing the last restraints of war and freely expressing their faith and joy.
This is an example of the hope felt during our travels. But in that freedom comes new responsibilities. The Sudanese bishops are deeply concerned for their country, anxious to help solve the problems in Darfur and to aid displaced southerners who want to return home. In addition, there are concerns that pressures on the CPA will create cracks in it. International attention has centered on Darfur in recent years, but it is one large piece in a complicated puzzle. If the CPA breaks, Sudan could tumble again into civil war, snuffing out Darfur's hope for peace. And without attention to the smaller, less notorious conflicts in other parts of the region, the chance of sustainable peace diminishes.
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